Thursday, June 17, 2010

Pag

Our pink hotel - and the food was great!
small boat harbor - notice the steps, how Mediterranean

a beach in Pag

SewDiva sitting on the beach finding shells

leaving Pag on the ferry. Notice: no green.

Our last stop on the Adriatic was the island of Pag. I had seen pictures of long sandy beaches and, when reading about places to go, Bear saw that it was a lace making center and was also famous for its cheese. Since this was to be our last stop at the ocean I thought a pink hotel would be a nice way to finish up. We found it all! The beaches weren’t exactly sandy – more like small stoney – but they had shells – the first we found here.

The cheese lived up to its reputation. We wanted to bring some home and so were wandering the streets looking for somewhere to buy it. On the side of a building was a sign with an arrow and #17. Bear went off on his quest and found a man sitting in the doorway of #17. As Bear went by he said “fromage?” and we had cheese. The man makes it himself. The lace was very lovely. It is called “needlelace” and is very similar to needle tatting except the holding threads are on a base and the whole thing is worked over a pillow in the lap rather than being all held in the hands. I found a lady on the quay selling her own stuff and so bought a beautiful piece to frame. I asked about instructions and was told that the only way to learn was to come to their lace school and study for 9 months. Let’s see, 9 months on the Adriatic doing handwork – I’m up for it. Bear said he would be willing to come along. We discovered we were in Pag one week early. There is an International Lace Convention going on here the 20th through the 25th of June. I would love to have been able to see it.

Pag is a very strange island. It is almost a desert island. On the seaward side there are low scrub bushes and the occasional tree. On the landward side it is absolutely barren. Not one shred of green. This is because of the prevailing dry wind that blows off the land. They have built rock walls to act as windbreaks and keep the island from blowing away.

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